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Mundaring Hobby Centre
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 Formed in 1989, by model makers who have utilised their many years' experience to produce scale model boat kits of the very best detail and material quality, Model Slipway has produced with its kits all the parts including a fibreglass hull, pre-cut and printed styrene sheets for deck and superstructure, metal fittings, propeller shafts/tubes, propellers, rudders; full-sized drawings and assembly instructions. Not included in the kits are radio controls, speed controllers, motors, couplings, batteries and their ancilliary accessories. However for the less experienced modeller, these highly skilled modellers have supplied this Tips list which will help you produce a high quality scale model. |
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TOOLS
- To build one of our kits, the following is the minimum required:
- a sharp modelling knife (Stanley knife),
- scalpel and spare blades;
- a cutting mat or a piece of scrap hardboard;
- a steel rule;
- a pair of spring callipers;
- small clamps or clothes pegs;
- a small vice;
- hand drill or small drill and bits;
- mini-drill with a 25mm dia. tungsten cutting disk;
- a selection of files;
- a couple of small screwdrivers;
- miniature spanners;
- pliers and tweezers;
- wet and dry sandpaper (grit 100, 200 and 380) and a sanding block;
- elastic bands; masking tape;
- tape measure;
- a 30W soldering iron, solder and flux (if you wish to solder).
- Styrene sheet or more commonly called plastic card comes in different thickness. The advantage of plastic over wood is that it has a smooth finish that requires no filling (other than on joints) to give a non-grainy finish. With many vessels in steel, wood with a grain does not look right. Plastic does not splinter and smooth holes can be drilled. Plastic is relatively light so model upperworks will not make the model top heavy.
- Cutting
Using a steel rule, lightly score the material with several strokes. Place your thumbnails either side of the score, and with your fingernails on the underside, raise this line up towards you. This will cause the plastic to fracture along the score line and then simply bend away from you and the part will snap out. Complex shapes can easily be 'chased' along all pre-scored lines. Cut well outside the marked outline of a curved component, then file or sand back to the correct profile. If a raised ‘burr’ is left along the cut edge it can be removed by dragging a Stanley blade along that edge. - Bending Place the area to be bent in hot water and gently bend, alternatively, place the area to be bent over the edge of the bench and run it back and forth. If you have to curve strips of plastic along their length, hold between finger and thumb at the centre, pull your hands apart bending down as you pull - this will curve the strip to a gentle radius.
- Assembling and Gluing Assemblies of die-cut or printed parts (superstructure etc.) can be made easy if the components are held together and built up using 4-5mm strips of masking tape. This will ensure close tight joints and most of all, allow you to stand back and check for accuracy before gluing. The best type of glue is the liquid polystyrene glue of which there are several brands available. This is always applied either with a bottlecap brush supplied or a small paintbrush. The glue is simply brushed along joints and the liquid glue will 'capillary' along a good fitting joint. Keep the glue away from taped areas. After a few minutes the tape is removed and the joint can be re-glued. A note of caution: avoid using excess adhesive - it works by dissolving the plastic and too much will create deformation. If a joint looks stepped or untidy, it can be fettled, sanded and scraped clean (with a Stanley blade) after a few hours when the glue has thoroughly dried. If done well the joint is almost invisible! Practice on scrap plastic in order to perfect your own technique. When gluing the deck to plastic deck support strips, always rough the surface of the plastic to give it a key.
- Cutting
- THERMO-FORMED PARTS (vac-formings)
- Trimming: Pencil in the trim line. Using a sharp modelling knife, score the plastic heavily around the trim line, and carefully snap away the waste material. Remove as much waste material with a knife or scissors as possible. Final trimming of edges is done by rubbing the component with a circular motion on, or with, a piece of medium-grade abrasive paper taped to a flat surface.
- Gluing and Painting:
Rescue boats and BOTI boats are an easy exercise. Again, have a dry run using thin strips of masking tape. With the top half of the moulding upside down, place the front lower moulding into the bow section and place a piece of tape on the very front thus holding the two pieces together. You should have full contact at the nose only and the transom ends will be apart. Apply a small amount of liquid glue just where the two mouldings actually meet, leave to dry. Once dry, move back along the open joint 10 to 20mm, pull together and again join with tape and glue – do both sides together and leave to dry. Continue these actions rearwards until the mouldings are joined.
Thermo-formed parts do not need a primer when painted with plastic enamel paints. Wash with a little detergent before painting.
- FIBREGLASS (GRP) HULL
- Preparing
Remove any mould line from the outside of the hull along the keel line, using a fine file. The hull needs to be rubbed down with 380 wet or dry abrasive paper to matt the surface and provide a key for the paint.
Drilling holes in the wrong places in the fibreglass hull can be easily fixed. From the outside of the hull cover the hole with a piece of masking tape. Mix up and pour some gel-coat resin from inside, alternatively car body filler paste will do equally well. When set, remove tape and rub down flush with wet and dry abrasive paper. If necessary apply more filler.
Reinforce the repair from the inside with a shallow ‘mound’ of filler.
If a hull is slightly distorted due to being laid on its side for a long time or stood up on end, it is possible to bring it back to shape by warming it with a hair dryer or hot air paint-stripping gun.
To cut out freeing ports proceed as follows:- mark in pencil, then drill a series of holes along the slot and open up carefully with a small flat file. File from the outside inwards only and don't drag the file back out as this can chip the gel-coat. Alternatively use an electric mini drill with a 25mm dia. tungsten cutting disk. Hold the drill with both hands as it can tend to grab and jump. - Painting
Aerosol "red oxide" available from car accessory stores is ideal for spraying the hull below the waterline. A thin white line just above the waterline can be made using trim tape available from most model shops. - Waterline
To determine the correct waterline, mark it off at the bow and stern, from the plans. Sitting the hull on the stand, mount a pencil to a block of appropriate height and draw the waterline lightly by sliding the block round the hull.
- Preparing
- WHITE METAL and ETCHED BRASS
Clean up any flash, or mould lines on white metal castings, using fine files. File flat some surfaces using fine files, or wet or dry sandpaper glued to a flat piece of plywood. Cut etched brass with sharp wire cutters or industrial scissors. Apply a coat of primer or matt white paint before painting. - DOWELS
Paint wooden dowels with 2/3 coats of Humbrol clear cellulose primer filler. Rub down between coats to a smooth finish. Cut and assemble, then apply a final coat of paint. Dowel for mast can be replaced by brass tubing if you wish to install working lights. - WATERSLIDE TRANSFERS
Soak each transfer in tepid water for about 30 seconds - do not allow the transfer to float off. Wet the area where the transfer is to go, slide it into place and dab down flat and dry with a soft cloth. When thoroughly dry, paint over with satin finish varnish. - PAINTS
The paints recommended in our assembly instructions are Humbrol enamels. However, in the United Kingdom every major town has an ‘Autopaint’ warehouse where paint is mixed for the auto trade. ‘Autopaint’ will also mix any colour into 300ml aerosols which are ideal for modellers. These aerosols have a special additive that activates the hardener once the paint is exposed to air. Alternatively Halford's own brand acrylic aerosols are equally good. - FILLERS
- For fibreglass: holes and gaps in the fibreglass hull can be filled using a ‘soft’ paste car body filler available from car accessory shops or DIY stores. When the filler has hardened, sand flat with fine wet or dry paper.
- For plastic: again use a ‘soft’ paste car body filler, or, Humbrol plastic filler available in model shops. Alternatively make your own filler by adding styrene shavings to solvent in a small glass jar and leave overnight. The plastic will dissolve and form a putty.
- ADHESIVES
May be in tube form (polystyrene cement) or in liquid form such as Humbrol Liquid Poly or MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) which is best applied with a brush; the technique is to apply a few drops of the solvent and the glue will run down the joint by capillary action. The following glues are recommended:
- Fibreglass to plastic: two-part epoxy (10 min. or 1 hour).
- Plastic to plastic: ordinary plastic solvent (Liquid Poly).
- Whitemetal to whitemetal: two-part epoxy or thick superglue.
- Whitemetal to plastic: two-part epoxy or thick superglue.
- Wood to plastic: two-part epoxy, thick superglue or contact adhesive.
- Brass to plastic: R/C modellers craft glue or thick superglue.
- Rubber Fender: contact adhesive.
- Window glazing: R/C modellers craft glue.
- PROPELLER SHAFT & TUBE
To install the propeller shaft and tube, drill a hole into the hull using a drill smaller than the tube diameter, and then open it up with a round file.
Before fixing the propshaft/tube to the hull, using emery paper lightly abrade around the gluing area in order to provide a good bond. Use masking tape to hold assemblies in place and to allow final adjustment. Apply a small amount of epoxy to hold in place. When set and you are happy with the alignment apply more epoxy over the joint inside and outside the hull. When dry, sand with medium grade sandpaper.
To ensure that the propeller shaft runs smoothly apply light machine oil to the bearing ends. Do not use grease as it is too thick and will cause drag. Note: it is not necessary to fit an oiling tube. - MOTORS and MOUNTINGS
There is such a variation in motor performance that, generally, it is best to follow the kit manufacturers recommendations. To remove the motor in seconds, a simple motor mounting can be made using triangular blocks of wood and rubber bands.
Proceed as follows:
- fit the motor to the coupling and shaft,
- hold the motor up to roughly the correct position to assess the size of the blocks.
- Cut blocks to suit your application.
- Pre-drill and fix hooks or large head screws.
- Apply epoxy glue to the underside of blocks and place either side of the motor.
- While the glue is wet the blocks can be pushed inward to raise and align the assembly.
- An alternative method of installation is to screw or bolt the motor to a block or blocks glued to the hull.
- RATING OF SPEED CONTROLLERS
You need to know the stall current of the motor to determine the rating of the speed controller. (This applies to cars, boats or planes). You will need the motor and battery you will be using, and an ammeter or an electric test meter.
Proceed as follows:
- Set the meter to the highest amperage scale, e.g. 10 amps
- Connect one terminal of the motor to the battery (-)
- Connect the battery (+) to the meter
- Connect the meter to the motor.
- The motor will run and show a meter reading. If it shows a negative i.e. backward reading simply swap meter wires. It will show something in the order of 1-2 amps while free-running.
- Apply a pair of pliers to the motor shaft (using a piece of cardboard or cloth to protect it) and momentarily stop the motor. The meter will now show a much higher reading. This is the stall current, it could be 10 amps or more.
If the meter reading is below 10 amps you can use a 10 amp speed controller. If it shows anything between 10 and 20 amps, then you must use a 20 amp speed controller. If more than 20 amps then change the motors!
- SOLDERING
White metal fittings and railing can be soldered as well as glued. You need a simple 30W soldering iron, a light dimmer switch and some low-melt 70 degree solder available in model railway shops.
Wire the switch into the soldering iron lead between the plug and the iron. When you turn the dimmer switch down you will reduce the power to the soldering iron, thus reducing the tip heat. Remember that the iron will take longer to get up to temperature; start by turning the iron down about halfway.
Take a spare white metal casting or casting off-cut, adjust the heat of the tip so that it will melt the solder but not the casting – this will take some time to get right! Mark the position on the switch for future reference.
Using a brass suede brush clean the casting you are going to solder. Flux and using the iron tip transfer some solder to each casting, tinning the edges to meet. Now hold the castings together and melt the solder into a joint.
When you have finished soldering all surplus flux should be washed off with clean water.
If you are soldering brass or other metals to the white metal castings, as in railings, first tin the rail where it fits to the casting with ordinary 60/40 solder - allow to cool. Then solder onto the casting with the 70 degree low-melt solder.
We hope the above will help in soldering metal castings and railing, however, this is only an alternative to gluing. Note that other manufacturers may use different white metal therefore always check the melting temperatures first.
